Surfin, Sunsets and more of the Same

Been a couple days what's up? What have i been doing.......The other day I headed over to Playa Pelada (the next beach over) rounding the rocky point of the beach that separates guiones (my beach) and Pelada. Around here you take the "senderos" system through the jungle to get from beach to beach and they wind all different ways where you are surrounded by nature then come out at a beach or in a town. Surprisingly minimal bugs even though it's 90 degrees and there's vegetation everywhere.

There was not a soul on Pelada when there were already a bunch of surfers at Guiones. I think it’s mostly a matter of the rocks. It clearly isn’t a surfing beach and there is only one small area where you can go in due to the rockiness. Nice to sit on a driftwood bench and take in the morning sounds of the ocean.

The amount of wildlife is crazy too as I already said. So many unidentified lizards, exotic birds, even saw an anteater looking thing the other day. Hit up a coffee shop once I got to town of course and it had a lot less going on than my little spot with only 2 or 3 restaurants, a coffee shop, and a hotel or 2.

I got some laundry done and went surfing on a whim yesterday. It felt calm even though it was mid-day heat. I was walking by Juan Surfo's shack, grabbed a board went back for more pain.

I’m gaining on it slowly and went about a bit more strategically (besides grabbing the board on a random walk). I stayed in the breakers and the whitewater and just practiced the push off and standing up. I had a couple waves where I actually felt balanced after realizing that I needed to stay lower, spread my feet out more, lean forward, and let the wave start taking me longer before I transitioned into the pop-up. I definitely wiped out a bunch, gulped some salt water, tumbled head over heels once, and even lost my suit after it came loose over the session. I made a whole lot of attempts again and have the itch to learn more now. I have enough time to figure it out. I wish I could’ve stayed in longer but the sun is still frying my nose off after an hour during the heat of the day. Need to find that Zinc screen and go out there looking like Scarface next time I surf.

Fun times though, and bad news for the ocean and any real surfers here, I'LL BE BACK.

The freedom of the beaches and this place in general is something I've observed that is amazing. It ain't Jersey. There’s no beach tags, no lifeguards, no one about to yell at you for doing something. It’s all “enter at your own risk”.  It’s cool, I like it that way. People looking out for the person next to them, sure, but overall it’s figuring it out on your own. Had some absolutely fantastic tacos from a little truck called Tacos Y Tacos. All fresh ingredients, juicy ribeye, unreal guac, and the marinade for the shredded chicken was bursting with flavor. Respect.

Awesome sunset last night too, best one yet, did a beach walk for it. It was a good full day, read a bunch too.

Need a little time out of the sun today, go birds.