Whole Lotta Gelato

Yo yo yo what’s up the routine has continued of surfing, sunsets, smoothies and added in a whole lotta gelato. Need to keep a vice since I haven’t been drinking down here so been back housing gelato like I’m in Europe again. Side note, there needs to be a business called “Whole Lotta Gelato”, somebody start that up. Been a caramel guy lately. I'll mix it up with mint chocolate chip or pistachio but caramel's been hitting.

There’s been some ups and downs in the recent surf sessions but the biggest win was a couple days ago. I was out in my normal spot now down closer to the jeti where it’s less crowded. A couple older dudes were surfing there that are from Colorado and I got to talking to them. The guy Terry had seen me now a few days in a row go from struggling on the whitewater, to standing consistently to trying to get real waves. He’s been surfing for 30 years and is smooth and quick with the launch trigger on a wave for a guy that’s probably mid 50s.

They were giving me some more tips and I took one while they were sitting paddling through it just a little behind me. I popped up, rode down the face for a quick few seconds, and then straight in towards shore as the wave crashed on all sides. When I got back out passed the break Terry goes, “Dude that was a real one, you’re actually surfing now.” That was a high compliment, I was not expecting to get there.

To be clear I am not there yet, it's more of a "broken clock is right twice a day" type situation. After that I didn’t get another one and had a rough session the following day. The waves were just too big for where I am right now. They were high overhead and it was the most tiring session yet. Just paddling out was exhausting. Ya lose ground fast on days like that, especially with the bigger foam boards. The improvement feels good though. 

Seen more sunsets and read more books and have spoken a bit more Spanish. The crowd for sunset seems to grow every time.

I've been walking different trails when I have the energy after surf and trying more new coffee shops. Surfing soreness definitely lingers though. I am surprised by the amount of different businesses that have been able to survive in an area like this. It's awesome, keeps things lively. Clearly a lot of wealthy people come down this way now and spend good money at the restaurants, coffee shops and bars. People that own nice antique cars like this:

Tired from surfing again this morning so i'll be chilling before going to check out a surf competition they have here today at 330. Maybe I should enter for some laughs. Peace and I'll check back in when I feel like it....